How to Substitute Discontinued Yarn in an Old Knitting Pattern

This happens in our shop surprisingly often....

A customer comes in carrying an old, vintage knitting pattern that they have kept for years. Sometimes it has been carefully stored in a folder. Sometimes it has been folded, scribbled on and knitted from so many times that it is beginning to fall apart.

They would love to make the pattern again, but there is one fairly obvious problem: the yarn mentioned in it disappeared from the shelves decades ago.

That does not mean the pattern is unusable. It just means we need to do a little detective work.

Why the Number of Balls Is Not Enough

Older patterns were commonly written for one particular yarn. Instead of giving the total length required, they might simply tell you to buy eight balls of that yarn.

That was perfectly helpful when the yarn was readily available. Years later, it is rather less useful.

A ball of yarn is not a standard unit of measurement. One 50g ball might contain 90 metres, while another yarn of the same weight could contain 120 metres or more. Buying the same number of balls in a modern alternative could therefore leave you with far too much yarn or, considerably worse, not enough.

What we really need to know is the total metreage used by the original pattern.

Finding Information About the Original Yarn

The first step is to look for the full name of the yarn printed on the pattern. The manufacturer, yarn name and any information about its weight or fibre content can all help.

We will often search for the original yarn on Ravelry or Google. Even if it was discontinued many years ago, it is surprising how often somebody has recorded its details online. The YarnSub website can sometimes help too.

We are looking for information such as:

• The weight of each ball
• The number of metres or yards per ball
• The fibre content e.g. Superwash Merino wool
• The recommended needle size
• The stated tension
• The yarn weight, such as 4-ply, DK or Aran

Once we know how many metres were in each original ball, we can calculate approximately how much yarn the whole project requires.

Calculating the Total Metreage

Imagine an old pattern asks for 10 balls of a discontinued yarn. After a little searching, we discover that each ball originally contained 95 metres.

The calculation is:

10 balls × 95 metres = 950 metres

We now know that the pattern requires approximately 950 metres in total.

If the replacement yarn contains 120 metres per ball, we divide the total required by the length of the new yarn:

950 metres ÷ 120 metres = 7.92 (8) balls

The calculation is straightforward once you have found the original yarn information. Finding that information is often the trickier part.

Metres Matter More Than the Number of Balls

When substituting yarn, compare the total length rather than simply matching the number or weight of the balls.

Even two DK yarns sold in 100g balls can contain different lengths. One may be denser, more tightly spun or made from a different blend of fibres.

This is why replacing eight balls of an old yarn with eight balls of a new one is not necessarily a safe approach. The numbers may look right while the actual amount of yarn is quite different.

Matching the Yarn Weight

The replacement yarn will usually need to be the same weight as the original. If the pattern was written for DK, start by looking at DK yarns. If it used 4-ply, look at modern 4-ply alternatives.

However, the name printed on the label is only part of the story. Yarn weights can vary slightly between manufacturers, and some older yarn descriptions do not line up perfectly with the terms we use today.

The tension information on the pattern is often more useful than the yarn-weight name alone. 

Check the Tension

Matching the tension is especially important when making a garment. Even a small difference can change the finished size considerably.

Look at the tension stated on the pattern and compare it with the suggested tension on the replacement yarn. You may need to try a different needle size to achieve the required number of stitches and rows. 

This is where the dreaded tension square earns its keep, although we often remind customers that stitch gauge can be far more important than row gauge, depending on the pattern. It's often an option to add a few extra rows or perhaps knit a few less, if it's a relatively plain pattern. 

Making a tension square may feel like an unnecessary delay when you are eager to begin, but it is much less frustrating than finishing the back of a jumper and discovering it would fit either a small child or the family car.

Wash and dry your tension square in the same way you intend to treat the finished item before measuring it. Some yarns can change noticeably after washing.

Think About the Fibre Content

Matching the tension and metreage does not always mean two yarns will behave in the same way.

A pure wool yarn may produce a very different fabric from cotton, alpaca or acrylic (did somebody just say 'acrylic'?!). The finished project could feel heavier, drape differently or have less elasticity than the original design intended.

Consider what you are making and what the yarn needs to do. A fitted ribbed jumper needs resilience and recovery. A flowing shawl may benefit from softness and drape. A hard-wearing everyday garment needs a yarn that can cope with regular use.

You do not necessarily have to copy the original fibre content exactly, but it is worth understanding how changing it may affect the result.

What If You Cannot Find the Original Yarn?

Occasionally, even Ravelry and Google draw a blank.

If no information about the original yarn can be found, the pattern itself may still provide useful clues. Check the recommended needle size, tension, fibre description and finished measurements.

From those details, an experienced yarn shop (where could you possibly find one of those!?) should be able to suggest a sensible starting point. You will still need to make a tension square, and estimating the total quantity may involve a little more caution.

If the pattern gives only the number of balls and no information about their weight or length, it may be impossible to calculate the exact original metreage. In that situation, it is wise to allow some extra yarn rather than aiming for the absolute minimum.

Buy Enough at the Beginning

Once you have chosen a suitable replacement, try to buy enough for the whole project at the same time.

Commercially produced yarn can vary slightly between dye lots. Hand-dyed yarn will naturally vary from skein to skein, even when it has been dyed in the same batch.

Then there’s yarn chicken - knitting faster and faster as the ball gets smaller, as though speed somehow creates more yarn. Sometimes you win. Sometimes you’re left needing another ball for the final six stitches.

Running out close to the end of a project is annoying at the best of times. Running out when the matching dye lot or colourway is no longer available is considerably more so.

Old Patterns Still Have Plenty of Life in Them

A discontinued yarn does not mean you have to abandon a much-loved pattern.

With a little research, some basic arithmetic and a proper tension square, most older patterns can be successfully matched with a modern yarn. The important thing is not to treat “eight balls” as the complete answer.

Find the original metreage if you can, calculate the total length required and then choose a replacement that gives you the right tension and fabric.

And if you find yourself standing in a yarn shop clutching a pattern from 1978, do not worry. We have probably seen something similar before - and we are always rather partial to a bit of yarn detective work.

Ready to find the right yarn for your pattern? Explore our hand-dyed yarns, or get in touch if you need help choosing a suitable substitute.